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Itinerary Ideas
Northumberland
boasts more genuine castles than any other county in England.
This itinerary features several historic and photogenic castles
and other places of interest close to the Northumberland coast.
There is enough history and scenery here to occupy a short break
of a couple of days in the area.
Warkworth
Quietly picturesque small town whose main street rises attractively
from the Norman church by the river to the striking castle on
its hill above the River Coquet. It's virtually complete so wandering
round the crooked passageways and dark staircases is wonderfully
atmospheric. Sneaky plots were one hatched here by the Earl of
Northumberland and Harry Hotspur - events immortalised in Shakespeare's
Henry IV.
Alnmouth
Situated on a narrow spit of land between the River Aln and the
North Sea Alnmouth was originally the port for Alnwick and is
today a charmingly picturesque resort.
Craster
On a warm summer's day you can smell Craster's famous export
- kippers! This fishing village is famed for its kippers, cured
over oak in a traditional way.
Seahouses & The Farne Islands
A busy fishing harbour, overlooked by old interesting pubs. From
April to September, weather permitting, you can get boat trips
around the Farne Islands, to see the eider ducks, thousands of
other seabirds, and grey seals - breeding from the end of summer
into autumn, with the plaintive-voiced pups staying on shore for
only a few weeks.
Bamburgh
A huge square Norman castle on a mighty cliff, its clock serving
as timekeeper for the cricket green in the attractive village
below. Despite the forbidding exterior, the inside is very much
a lived-in stately home, with armour from the Tower of London.
Grace Darling Museum. Pictures, documents and other reminders
of the local heroine including the boat in which Grace and her
father rescued 9 survivors from the wrecked SS Forfarshire.
Holy Island
Holy Island, otherwise known as Lindisfarne is linked to the
mainland by a causeway which you can cross over at low tide. Once
there, there are nature-reserve dunes, a restored tidemill, fishermen's
huts made of upturned former boats, old limekilns, a small extended
village with cafes and pubs, and good views from the close-grazed
grassy crags. The main draw is Lindisfarne Priory, from where
in the 7th century, St Aidan and monks from Iona replanted the
seeds of Christianity in Dark Ages England. These early monks
were driven out by Vikings but the priory was re-established in
the 12th century, and it's the extensive remains of this foundation
you can see today; a very peaceful and romantic spot, with graceful
red sandstone arches bordered by neat lawns. The rather lonely
and austere exterior of Lindisfarne Castle belies what's within;
the 16th century fortress was restored by Lutyens for the editor
of Country Life in a suitably monolithic, quasi-medieval style.
Sumptuous furnishings include a fine collections of antique oak
furniture, and there's a walled garden designed by Gertrude Jekyll.
Chillingham
A striking old castle dating back to the 12th century, full of
antiques, tapestries, arms and armour. Formal gardens, woodland
walks, lake and splendid views of the surrounding countryside;
occasional concerts and special events. Brave souls can rent one
of their haunted rooms. In Chillingham Wild Cattle Park, the famous
large-horned white cattle have been around for the last 700 years,
the only animals of their kind still pure and uncrossed with domestic
breeds. As they are potentially aggressive, tours are conducted
by a guide.
Alnwick
The 'Windsor of the North' dates back to the 11th century, and
is the second largest inhabited castle in the country. Some soldiers
perched on the battlements seem to stand guard, and inside all
is Italian Renaissance grandeur, with a magnificent art collection
taking in works by Titian, Van Dyck and Canaletto. Some rooms
are quite breathtaking. Also famous collection of Meissen china
and Roman Remains.
Berwick Upon Tweed
During the 12th century the town assumed importance as the most
commercial of the four Royal Burghs of Scotland. A place of red-roofed,
grey stone houses and quaint, narrow streets enclosed within walls,
Berwick has been described as the most exciting town in England.
The great Elizabethan walls are regarded as the best-preserved
in Europe.
Paxton
Paxton House built for a King's daughter, is one of the finest
18th century Palladian houses in Britain with interiors by Robert
Adam and the largest Chippendale collection in Scotland.
Norham
A pleasant village of grey cottages beside the River Tweed, it
even has a weathervane in the shape of a fish - evidence of the
importance of fishing to the village. Readers of Sir Walter Scott
will be familiar with Norham, for its famous castle was featured
in Marmion. Norham Castle was one of the strongest border fortresses
and has one of the finest Norman keeps in the country.
Ford & Etal
Tucked away amongst trees is the delightful model village of
Ford, created by Louisa, Marchioness of Waterford, a bridesmaid
of Queen Victoria. She devoted her time to painting after the
death of her husband, built the village school and then decorated
the walls with watercolour paintings on Biblical themes. Like
neighbouring Etal with its romantic Castle, Ford has several craft
shops and close by is Heatherslaw Mill, a restored 19th century
water-driven corn mill.
Flodden
The battle took its name from Flodden Hill where the English
defeated the Scots on 9 September 1513. This last and most bloody
battle fought on Northumberland soil was not just a border scuffle,
but was linked to greater events in Europe. 10,000 Scotsmen were
killed - including James and members of nearly every noble family
in Scotland. The English under the Earl of Surrey, lost 5,000
men.
Kelso
Elegant Kelso, situated in Middle March where the River Teviot
joins the Tweed, is not a typical Border town. Facing south towards
the Cheviots, Kelso has a 'Flemish' style wide, cobbled market
square flanked by gracious Georgian buildings, making it without
doubt the most attractive town in the Scottish Borders.
Jedburgh
The beautiful red sandstone Abbey, founded as a priory by David
I in 1138 has been sacked and rebuilt many times. However, it
is the most entire of the Border monastic houses and has been
described as 'the most perfect and beautiful example of the Saxon
and early Gothic in Scotland'. Mary Queen of Scots visited Jedburgh
in 1566 and ill health prolonged her stay in the attractive market
town. The house she used during her stay, named 'Queen Mary's
House', is a museum to her memory.
Otterburn
This is where James, Earl of Douglas, died at the hand of Harry
Hotspur in the famous Battle of Otterburn (1388). The early 19th
century mill used to produce world famous tweeds and woollens
using the fleece of local black-faced sheep.
Elsdon
One of the finest pele towers in the county, and the remains
of a Norman motte-and-bailey, illustrate Elsdon's one-time strategic
importance.
Return to Alnwick via Rothbury in Coquetdale, a market town since
1205, and a perfect centre for exploring the Cheviots and the
Northumberland National Park.
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